You Might Be A Porteño If...

...you indulge in the Argentine Make-Out.

Is there anything in this world that is a more simple outward sign of affection that a kiss?  A kiss can heal a bruised knee of a crying child; it can tell someone you’re sorry after a fight; and it can just let somebody know that you’re there, you love them, and you always will.  It’s beautiful and tender, evoking so much love and passion that with its simple act, it can arouse overwhelming emotion.

Let’s take a walk down memory lane and answer this: Is there anything like the rush of your first kiss?  Those adolescent years are fleeting, exciting, frustrating, and full of doubt, wonder, highs, lows, experimentation, and a lot of learning.  But that first kiss is something none us are soon to forget.  It starts with awkward trading looks and shy smiles.  Do they want me to?  Should I make the move?  I’m gonna do it.  NO, I might get rejected and look a fool.  No, they want me to… JUST DO IT DAMN IT!!  And as you close in for contact, you’re rushed with emotion.  Your vision is blurry, your chest heaves, your blood rushes, your eyes close… and?  Elation!  Fireworks in your stomach explode, trumpets sing from the ramparts, choirs of angels rejoice in your triumph.  A simple act bringing overwhelming emotion.

Finally, is there anything more special and even appreciated than to see this act expressed?  We cry tears of joy in movies when the distanced lovers overcome all obstacles to be together, locking lips with a passionate kiss as rain falls, drenching them in love, to conclude the movie (who else loves the Notebook?).  We rain cheers upon two newly joined souls as they embrace each other for their first matrimonial kiss.  We smile upon the old couple with a storied reverence as they do something they’ve done a thousand times before, share a kiss as the celebrate their 50^th wedding anniversary.  And we laugh at the innocence of the awkward teen (above) move in for their initial attempt at some tonsil hockey, shaking our heads knowingly as we say, “I remember the days…”.

But there is nothing, I mean NOTHING, more graceful, beautiful, affectionate or gentle than an old-fashioned, as we’ve dubbed it, the “Argentine Make-Out”.  No, there is no park too small, subway too crowded, or street too dirty for this ancient Argentine PDA practice.  Over the months, we have gone from bewildered awe to a bit weirded out to complete acceptance and nonchalant attitude towards this somewhat obscene gesture of love.  While we haven’t necessarily participated in it, simply enjoying it vicariously through the portenos we see doing it.  There doesn’t seem to be any shame in it by its participants nor any displeasure expressed by the passers-by as well.  It is just a part of daily life, a routine occurrence that we have come to expect when we are outside the apartment.

So when you come to Buenos Aires, be prepared.  Gals grab your lipstick, guys lick your chops, and everybody get ready for a good ‘ol Argentina Make Out!!

Some examples:

You might be a Porteña if...

You might be a Porteña if you are not in the least bit disturbed by the hoards of men that cat-call and sexually harass you on a daily basis.

Also, if you're really good, you try to walk behind a really hot/gorgeous woman so all the men pay attention to her and you can pass unscathed.

Some greatest hits...

- (translation courtesy of my porteña friend) "You can be in my play and I'll be your Romeo."
- "Aye! Mi lomita!" Translation:  my little piece of meat
- "Sexo?" Translation: Sex?
- Any kind of strange variation of a hiss or smooch noise you can make. The more disgusting the sound, the better.
- "¿Que tal una fiesta?" Translation: How about a party?

I would NEVER wear something like this in broad daylight here.

A day in the park

We're not really sure who this is, but it greeted us at Bosques de Palermo

Last weekend the weather finally turned, and it's like all the porteños came out of hibernation to soak up some sunshine. People kept telling us that the weather changes from winter to spring in a snap, but we thought it was exaggeration. However, we woke up one day, and it literally went from the high 50's the day before, to the low 70's the next day. And it hasn't changed back yet. It's amazing! We've been smothered by clouds, rain, and winter for so long (almost exactly 12 months, give or take a few days), I think we forgot what spring and summer felt like. So last Saturday, we took the subway up to Plaza Italia and visited Bosques de Palermo and Parque 3 de Febrero. Bosques de Palermo is a huge park complex with grass, trees, man-made ponds, and little trails. It's a really nice area right in the heart of the city. 

A trail in Bosques de Palermo

just celebrating life!

embracing his inner 7 year old and climbing trees

We meandered our way to another park with a big man-made lake. It's called Parque 3 de Febrero. Why they couldn't come up with a more creative name, I don't know. This place reminded us of Greenlake. There was a pavement path around the lake where people were rollerblading, riding bikes, and running. There were grassy areas where people were sitting on blankets, having picnics or just enjoying the sun. There was a flower garden, a Greek-style bridge, little footpaths and small statues and sculptures. It was a beautiful place inside the chaotic city. 

Parque 3 de Febrero

more lake

apparently everyone rollerblades

Puente Griego

gardens

you can buy hot water for you mate'

the biggest streetlamp ever

We finished off the day with a choripan (which was one of the best we've ever had) and a hamburguesa made fresh on a flat-top grill from a street vendor - topped with homemade, spicy, delicious chimichurri. 

Our Food of the Week is...Chipa!

Chipa is actually a Paraguayan specialty. Our friend, Lola, introduced us to the addictiveness of chipa when we went for a visit to her house on day. Chipa or Chipitas (little chipas), are these little chewy biscuits studded with cheese bits. Good chipitas are slightly crusty on the outside, and chewy on the inside. We usually eat chipitas with mate' (to be covered in another post) on Friday afternoons. Not every bakery sells good chipa or chipitas, so we are constantly searching for one that makes these little delicacies close to our neighborhood. Currently, the only bakery we can find is a good 30 minute walk away from our apartment in San Telmo. However, one could argue that this is also a good thing because if there were a bakery close by with good chipitas, we would probably just end up surviving on chipitas and nothing else.
I tried to look up a recipe and I stumbled across a blog authored by a Paraguayan chef who explained that the secret behind chipa is using yucca starch/flour...and not regular corn or wheat flour. The yucca starch base gives chipa it's chewy texture, while the other flours can result in a chalky texture.
Though chipa is not Argentine, it is for sure something we will try to recreate once we return home.

Chipitas with mate'

It seems like a lot, but before you know it, they are all gone
and you're wondering why you didn't buy more.

Milanesas and a Look at Our City

When you live somewhere, it's easy to overlook or become used to the things that make a city or environment unique. Every barrio (neighborhood) has it's own story and culture to go along with it. Buenos Aires has so much character and the city itself has so many different distinguishing landmarks and characteristics, it's hard to pick a place to begin. Jesse and I live in the heart of the city, and everyday we walk by old, carefully designed, absolutely gorgeous buildings. We've become used to strolling by some of these places without staring in awe.  Yesterday, we strolled around the San Telmo market and took some pictures of some buildings in and around our neighborhood. We aren't entirely sure the significance of some of these buildings because there are historical buildings everywhere. You can literally just stroll down any old street and stumble upon some beautiful, early 20th century building - they're everywhere. 

The white building used to be a church that has now been converted into a museum at the top of Plaza de Mayo.
We walk by these 3 clock tower buildings everyday. 

This is the oldest church in Buenos Aires - that we also pass by everyday. They recently renovated and re-painted it. For years, it was hidden by scaffolding, and we were lucky enough to be here when they finally took it all down and re-opened the church and it's museum.

\

Teatro Colon - the famous theatre on 9 de Julio. 

Another structure we see everyday. We don't know the history, but this building is now filled with offices. 

Right up the street from our house, and across the street from the oldest church in Buenos Aires, you have the oldest book store in Buenos Aires. It's filled with books old (like hundreds of years old) and new.

We're not really sure of the significance of this church, but it's located in San Telmo, on Defensa St., where the market is every Sunday. 

 Also, some of you may remember that awhile ago, we had started a "food of the week." This sort of fell by the wayside, but we're bringing it back! So, our food of the week is...Milanesas!

Milanesas are basically breaded and fried meat. I know, what more explanation do you need?! They are very similar to a chicken fried steak...only their flavor and texture is much more delicate and subtle. You have to use the right type of breadcrumbs (finely ground stale french bread - nothing else will suffice), and milanesas are best when you use veal. First you buy a thin cut of veal, and then you pound it out so that it's extremely thin and very tender. Next, you lightly coat it with egg (lightly), lightly bread the meat (lightly), and then flash fry the meat in a pan. It's important that your pan is really hot, but not so hot that your breadcrumbs taste like ash afterwards. If your pan is too cold, you will have oil soaked milanesas...not a crispy milanesa. 

Milanesas can come with many different kinds of toppings. One of our favorites in "milanesa napolitana," which is a milanesa topped with a slice of ham, a thin layer of cheese, and tomato. Jesse also really enjoys a milanesa topped with a fried egg.  I made  milanesas the other night for Jesse's birthday and I topped them with red bell peppers and olives. No, it's not traditional but it was freaking delicious either way! 

breaded and ready to be fried

Finished product. Crispy milanesa de ternera con aceitunas, morrones, y aji.
(veal milanesa with olives, red pepper, and garlic)

You Might Be A Porteño If...

... you can walk across 9 de Julio in one move/one traffic light rotation. 

 For those of you new to Buenos Aires, this street boasts to be the biggest avenue in the world at 140 meters (462ft) wide. 

This picture represents 14 of the 19 lanes it has when you include to two one way side streets.  Walking from one side of very tall buildings to the other side of the street without stopping somewhere in the middle is almost impossible. Each section is separated by pedestrian traffic lights.  I haven't seen it done, but I believe it to be possible.  My record is three sections of the four.  With proper timing, watching traffic lights, etc., I think this goal will be accomplished sooner rather than later...

Tandil: Escape from BA

Jesse arriving at Cabinas Tandilia (ours is the third from left).

What do I see?  A concrete jungle.  Nope!  Grass, animals and nature.  What’s that smell?  Smog?  Not so much.  Fresh mountain air.  What’s that sound?  Blaring car horns?  Wrong.  It’s nothing.  What’s this sensation I’m feeling washing over me?  Stress.  Absolutely not.  Complete tranquility.  This was our weekend in Tandil.  Nestled in the foothills of an ancient, crumbling mountain range, Tandil was the perfect way for us to spend a weekend celebrating our first anniversary of marriage.  As delightful as the hustle and bustle of city life is, constantly bumping into people on the sidewalk, taking large breaths of bus exhaust, and having Old Man Leland bust our humps over our reports, we decided to break free and lap in a subdued atmosphere for the first time since we arrived.

Tandil sunset from
our cabin

Tandil is well known for several things.  Chiefly among them, and obvious draws to us, are their artesian beer, handcrafted cheeses, cured meats and of course, wine.  More on the delights of their culinary wizardry later, but besides the quietness, these things highlighted our weekend.

Meat and cheese at Epoca de Quesos

We stayed in a small cabin outside the town.  The cabin was fully equipped with all the amenities you would need, which was perfect since we planned on using exactly none of it.  OK, we used the stove to heat water for mate…  It was at the end of a long dirt road, far from anyone but us and the other patrons.  And since there are only four cabins total, we found were pretty isolated.  Which is exactly what we wanted.  We arrived Friday afternoon, got some lunch and headed out, via taxi, to the cabins.  Quickly, we transitioned into chill mode.  We ate our sandwiches and had a beer on our deck.  Bellies full and relaxing, we did what any red-blooded person would do and took a nap.  Refreshed, we utilized the hospitality of Miguel, the owner of the cabins and a very nice man, and had him drive us into town for dinner at Epoca de Quesos.  We came here for three reasons: cheese, meat, beer.  And it was incredible.  We had a platter with a smattering of different cheese and meat.  It was beyond delightful.  After saying, “Oh wow, this one is so good,” after every piece, we just shut, smiled, and plumped up.  We washed it down with their handcrafted beer, got a bottle of wine and headed home for some Rummy and wine.  Fantastic night.

Lindsay surveying the pampas

The next day we woke up to mate and the sounds of birds.  We headed over to Sierra del Tigre, a nature reserve adjacent to the cabin’s property.  It was a nice walk on a calm day.  The reserve has llamas, donkeys, and horses.  The have some cages of different bird species as well, including a very sad looking puma, but our main attraction were the views.  The peak of the “mountain” was only 380 meters or so, but still yielded some great views around the pampas.  We also found the remains of a llama scattered around one of the fields.  It was most likely killed by a pack of ravenous coyote like animals (closer to a fox) that we saw around the cabin in a crazed blood lust for lazy pachyderms.  After the hike (speaking of blood lust), we had some mate, chilled out, watched the sunset, then headed back into town and upon Miguel’s recommendation, went to dinner to a place called El Trebol.

Mate on the porch

This is a parrilla (bbq), but not a normal parrilla.  An all you can EAT parrilla.  For 60 pesos, we sit down with a plate and a guy comes around with a plate of meat that has just been removed from the grill or pit of fiery deliciousness, and asks you if you want some.  Of course you say yes (even to liver and intestine which we tried) and eat until you cannot eat anymore.  Besides eating meat, we each had an empanada.  Filled with meat.  No vegetables.  No breads.  No nothing.  Meat.  It was fan-freaking-tastic!!  The people next to us watched in awe as Jesse consumed piece after piece, outdistancing Lindsay by a wide margin.  (no, this wasn’t an eating competition, but just saying).  Again, our bellies more than happy, we headed home and crashed like a pair of…hmmm… insert your own metaphor here.

The grill...

The grillmaster...

The next morning, we did our morning routine, packed up, and meandered on back to Buenos Aires.  It was one of the most welcomed, needed, and pleasant weekends of our lives.  Highly recommended to anyone in the neighborhood and a wonderful memory for a first anniversary.

US!

The Meat Room at Syquet